Anyway, on to the collections...
Giambattista Valli
The office-going Gal Friday was Giambattista Valli's muse for Pre-Fall, a subdued departure from his standard party dresses, and I was pretty impressed. The clothes are sleek and ladylike but still have that sexy Valli edge. Especially loving all the luxe, shaggy furs (big shocker) and the oh-so-tightly-cinched work dresses.
Givenchy
Holy shit, how good is this collection? Ricardo Tisci went for a return to Givenchy's roots for Pre-Fall, citing '60s and '70s French style and the flick Emmanuelle as inspiration, but the vibe I get from these looks more than anything else is like a slick, feminized version of Bud Cort's Harold from the 1971 cult classic Harold & Maude (one of my favorite movies of all time). Come on, can't you just see the Pre-Fall Givenchy girl bumming out her mom with fake suicide attempts and tooling around Northern California in a sick hearsed-out Jaguar? Absolutely loving, loving, loving these looks.
Jason Wu
Twelve looks from Jason Wu this season because I'm totally enamored of his sharp, chic aesthetic. Much like Burberry Prorsum, Wu's looks had a subdued military feel that's incredibly fresh after seasons of heavy-handed references and over-the-top embellishment (not that there's anything wrong with that, either), and I like how his dresses look feminine and romantic but maintain that rigid vibe. The tie-neck dresses are my favorite pieces, and I'm also really keen on those impeccable Air Force blazers.
Matthew Williamson
How fun to see Matthew Williamson rethink his traditional aesthetic -- these clothes have the splashy colors and playful attitudes standard for the designer, but he's gone for a more urban tack with the silhouettes and styling, taking the clothes from the beach to the city. What's going on here is youthful and edgy yet sophisticated and I'm really into it. The sweater coat with the luscious-looking rabbit fur collar and those floor-sweeping dresses in oil-slick prints are major standouts for me.
Pringle of Scotland
There's nothing especially new here, but it's what Clare Waight Keller did with classics that made this collection exciting for me. By playing with texture and construction, Pringle of Scotland's classic knitwear got a total reinvention for pre-fall, and it looks cozy and fresh and edgy and traditional all at once. I especially like the loose-knit shaggy sweaters and the graph-cutout accents.
Proenza Schouler
Helloooooo, Proenza Schouler. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are another pair of designers moving away from the heavy embellishment of seasons past, choosing instead to focus on classic silhouettes. Hernandez said of the collection that suiting "feels cooler now than a miniskirt dripping with studs," and there certainly is a louche, sexy coolness to these looks. The effect is kind of a smokin'-in-the-girls'-room vibe: these are clothes for the most dangerous girls at the Catholic high school. Kind of makes me want to bust out a plaid skirt of my own.
Temperley London
It's business as usual at Temperley London, with Alice Temperley showing yet another collection heavy on ruffles, studs, and darkly girly prints, but that's what I like about her -- she knows exactly who she's designing for and as far as that customer is concerned she always hits the mark. The knife-pleated dresses in this collection are my favorites, and Temperely's use of cool waist-hugging belts is, as always, pretty decent.
Honorable Mentions
That's it for complete collections, but as with every season there were several collections which overall weren't quite my thing but that contained one or two drop-dead amazing standout pieces. So I'm going to share with you guys my Pre-Fall 2010 Honorable Mentions:
Derek Lam's chiffon dress and geometric coat
Lam's 12-look collection was overall just not my thing, but his "minimalism with warmth" approach did yield a couple of things I couldn't resist: this sweet ditsy-print dress (the perfect silhouette) and amazing geometric-print wool coat. To die.
Giles' presentation
Most of his clothes were too too for my tastes, but you have to hand it to Giles Deacon: his sense of presentation is off the chain. You have to love a designer that shoots his lookbooks as if they're cutting-edge editorials, and I do really like that tool-print dress.
Louis Vuitton's killer poncho
The LV collection was a bit of a weird mishmash in my opinion, but holy shit if that's not one of the most amazing goddamn ponchos I've ever laid eyes on. Can you even imagine swanning around town in that thing like it's no big deal?
Lanvin's presentation
Lanvin's lookbooks are always, always thoughtfully and impeccably photographed, so I thought I would throw kudos in Alber Ebaz' direction (god knows he deserves it!) even though overall his collection didn't do it for me. The two looks above, however, are totally my jam -- I'm not into leopard print but I would lounge around glamorously in that floor-length chiffon in a heartbeat, and of course you already know I'm a sucker for a big shaggy fur.
What were your favorite Pre-Fall looks this year? And tell me, would you be interested in reading coverage of the menswear collections?
Matthew Williamson
How fun to see Matthew Williamson rethink his traditional aesthetic -- these clothes have the splashy colors and playful attitudes standard for the designer, but he's gone for a more urban tack with the silhouettes and styling, taking the clothes from the beach to the city. What's going on here is youthful and edgy yet sophisticated and I'm really into it. The sweater coat with the luscious-looking rabbit fur collar and those floor-sweeping dresses in oil-slick prints are major standouts for me.
Pringle of Scotland
There's nothing especially new here, but it's what Clare Waight Keller did with classics that made this collection exciting for me. By playing with texture and construction, Pringle of Scotland's classic knitwear got a total reinvention for pre-fall, and it looks cozy and fresh and edgy and traditional all at once. I especially like the loose-knit shaggy sweaters and the graph-cutout accents.
Proenza Schouler
Helloooooo, Proenza Schouler. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are another pair of designers moving away from the heavy embellishment of seasons past, choosing instead to focus on classic silhouettes. Hernandez said of the collection that suiting "feels cooler now than a miniskirt dripping with studs," and there certainly is a louche, sexy coolness to these looks. The effect is kind of a smokin'-in-the-girls'-room vibe: these are clothes for the most dangerous girls at the Catholic high school. Kind of makes me want to bust out a plaid skirt of my own.
Temperley London
It's business as usual at Temperley London, with Alice Temperley showing yet another collection heavy on ruffles, studs, and darkly girly prints, but that's what I like about her -- she knows exactly who she's designing for and as far as that customer is concerned she always hits the mark. The knife-pleated dresses in this collection are my favorites, and Temperely's use of cool waist-hugging belts is, as always, pretty decent.
Honorable Mentions
That's it for complete collections, but as with every season there were several collections which overall weren't quite my thing but that contained one or two drop-dead amazing standout pieces. So I'm going to share with you guys my Pre-Fall 2010 Honorable Mentions:
Derek Lam's chiffon dress and geometric coat
Lam's 12-look collection was overall just not my thing, but his "minimalism with warmth" approach did yield a couple of things I couldn't resist: this sweet ditsy-print dress (the perfect silhouette) and amazing geometric-print wool coat. To die.
Giles' presentation
Most of his clothes were too too for my tastes, but you have to hand it to Giles Deacon: his sense of presentation is off the chain. You have to love a designer that shoots his lookbooks as if they're cutting-edge editorials, and I do really like that tool-print dress.
Louis Vuitton's killer poncho
The LV collection was a bit of a weird mishmash in my opinion, but holy shit if that's not one of the most amazing goddamn ponchos I've ever laid eyes on. Can you even imagine swanning around town in that thing like it's no big deal?
Lanvin's presentation
Lanvin's lookbooks are always, always thoughtfully and impeccably photographed, so I thought I would throw kudos in Alber Ebaz' direction (god knows he deserves it!) even though overall his collection didn't do it for me. The two looks above, however, are totally my jam -- I'm not into leopard print but I would lounge around glamorously in that floor-length chiffon in a heartbeat, and of course you already know I'm a sucker for a big shaggy fur.
What were your favorite Pre-Fall looks this year? And tell me, would you be interested in reading coverage of the menswear collections?
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