Even more looks! I'm loving tons of the collections this season.
Badgley Mischka
Love this slightly retro-feeling collection of ladylike but unstuffy dresses, suits, and gowns (the designers were apparently influenced by the "tropical glamour" of 1950s Cuba). I'm really taken with the subdued color palette in conjunction with the major statement jewelry. Mark Badgley and James Mischka can always be counted on to blow you away with their attention to detail, particularly when it comes to embellishment.
Carlos Miele
Carlos Miele's general focus on evening gowns gave way to short, sexy cocktail dresses and separates for Spring '10. I'm glad to see that black mesh and lingerie-inspired lace are still hitting major marks with designers all across the board -- I especially like Miele's mesh tank under the cropped, boxy sequined jacket, and with a little DIY embellishment you could turn that ubiquitous American Apparel mesh sweetheart dress into a decent approximation of the fourth look.
Chris Benz
I adore Chris Benz' clothes -- his playful sensibility always shines through in his designs, and you can tell that even his models are having a good time wearing his pieces. This collection was imbued with a spirit of childlike fun, with dresses, shells, jackets and suits dripping with confetti-like sequins and skirts created of explosions of multicolored tulle. The resulting effect is a grown-up take on the party clothes you might have fantasized about as a little girl. Adorable.
Elise Øverland
Elise Øverland got her start designing stagewear for rock stars, and the influence is apparent in all her tough-chic collections. I liked her juxtaposition of structured leather pieces and pale flowing dresses for Spring; the pieces are vastly different but you can see them all coming from the same rock 'n roll closet. I especially love her use of nude leather, particularly in the high-necked dress second from the right -- it comes off daring and sensual, but unusual and sophisticated.
Erin Fetherston
How cute is Erin Fetherston, saving the best for last by taking the runway her very own self (second from left) clad in the prettiest gown in her spring collection? Love her, and love her fairy-tale sensibility -- more black mesh seen in these looks, so consider that a trend that'll be keeping its legs well into 2010. I'm really into her flowing, transparent dark florals laying over tight-fitting minidresses; they have a '70s maxi feel with a very modern edge.
Hervé Léger by Max Azria
The unflinchingly body-conscious frocks on display at Hervé Léger are nothing new, but as they say, if it ain't broke, don't fix it, and the Léger bandage dress certainly ain't broke yet. Max Azria still injected the spring collection with a dose of freshness by throwing denim into the mix and getting even more daring with skin-baring cutouts (a theme he held onto for all three of his runway collections). I'm most into the first look -- its classic U neckline lends a certain casual air that feels really new in tandem with the hole-punched second-skin silhouette.
Jill Stuart
A rock 'n roll surprise from typically girly, free-spirited Jill Stuart -- Style.com went so far as to call the collection "a little slutty," and some of the pieces certainly are (even unwearably so), but there were enough solid looks here to get me excited. The embellishment in the form of outsized circular studs made me drool, especially on that very Vegas-era Elvis jacket second from the right, and there's yet more use of sexy cutouts and edgy mesh here.
J. Mendel
I simply love looking at this impeccable collection. Gilles Mendel claims his message for spring is "specialness, preciousness, and value...with a little something to make you dream," and I am hearing his message loud and clear in the form of these exquisite evening gowns, suits, and cocktail frocks. I'm such a sucker for citron, and the draping and detailing on these pieces are so tactile and lovely and just beyond. Beautiful.
Milly
Consistently one of my favorite designers, Michelle Smith of Milly killed it again this season with a collection focusing on black and white pieces with major , '70s-feeling gold embellishments (still a major theme in many runway shows this season, so keep your eyes out in the coming months). Love the bib-style neckline studding on the frocks and tanks, and the jackets are true standout pieces. My favorite part about this collection is that it's comprised of really basic shapes made special through studs and beads, which means a nimble-fingered fashionista could recreate some of these looks at home.
Temperely London
A full dozen looks from Temperley London because this collection was right up my alley -- more strappy cage styles, tons of major gold studs, lots of intricate scrollwork on mesh, and perhaps most incredibly, the belts. I'd kill for the lion-head piece on the second look from the left on the bottom, and the horse-studded one on the top is pretty incredible. The marabou coat and bolero are totally extreme in a wonderful way, and I really love the steel-capped lace-up shoes. Huge gold studs on some of the pieces feel reminiscent of Givenchy for Fall 2007, but that's OK with me.
Still more to come, of course!
Friday, September 18, 2009
Runway Roundup: Spring 2010 RTW Part 3
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1 comments:
The colors in J.Mendel = perfect
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